Wine tour to the sparkling wine estates of England
23 – 26 April, 2024
“Oh, to be in England, Now that April´s there …..”
Whereas the famous English poet Robert Barrett Browning (1812 – 1889) was enchanted by the fresh green leaves and birdsong in the English countryside, we have every reason to get even more excited. In the last few decades, the English wine industry has undergone an unparalleled revolution from a more amateur affair to a multi-million pound industry with sparkling wines that compete with the best on the world stage.
Climate change has no doubt played a part, not least in boosting the search for cooler, more northerly growing areas. But this alone would not have made such an impact were it not for the vision of a few individuals and the great potential of the land with its amazing sites, soils and suntraps of the often hilly terrain. Freed from the many regulatory constraints of their European neighbours and backed by huge investment in technology and equipment, a highly talented (international) workforce has been able to build on the experience of its greatest rivals to unlock this potential and produce unique wines that more than tick all the boxes.
The proof of the pudding is in the eating (or rather tasting), so join us on a journey along the south coast from West Sussex to Kent, along narrow country lanes and down bumpy farm tracks, to experience the glorious diversity of Wine Country England in its aristocratic estates, homely backyard wineries and stunning vineyard settings that simply take your breath away.
You never know – one day you may well find yourself walking into a bar in the Napa Valley, London or New York to be greeted by a “Care for a glass of Britagne”?
Tour Outline:
Our journey begins on the left of the map in Sussex, the region is referred to as the “beating heart of the English wine industry”, being the first with an approved PDO (Protected Designation of Origin). It is technically two counties – West and East Sussex. Within these boundaries lies the South Downs National Park, a hilly area typically composed of chalk, with one of the world´s most spectacular coastal walks rising out of the sea at the dramatic high cliffs of Beachy Head (obligatory photo stop). It also boasts England´s only designated desert at Camber Sands, in Rye.
Following our exploratory tour of prize-winning estates in Sussex, we move on to Kent, England’s iconic fruit and hop-growing county that earned it the title “Garden of England”. The great Victorian author Charles Dickens (1812 – 1870) once wrote: “Kent, sir, everyone knows Kent. Apples, cherries, hops and women”. If he were alive today, he would have also included “wine”, as it is now home to many excellent estates, attracted to the area by the favourable climatic conditions and soils. This applies not only to the British – this is where Champagne Taittinger chose to set up its UK venture, the first champagne house to invest in English soil. Unfortunately, we will not be able taste the wines as they will not be released until 2024 at the earliest.
Programme:
Below is a list of the estates that would fit perfectly into our itinerary. To allow for some flexibility, I suggest we book two wineries a day (one on the last). If time allows, we can then stop by for a drop-in tasting at another, do some shopping (the local delicacies are oh! so tempting) or enjoy one of the areas of outstanding natural beauty for which this part of the country is famous.
Nyetimber, West Chiltington
Exquisite ensemble of Tudor buildings and gardens with a fascinating history dating back to medieval times, involving monks, kings and queens (not least Henry VIII and his fourth wife, Anne of Cleves). It is generally regarded as the estate that put England on the world wine map when it won the award for the best sparkling wine in the world at the International Wine and Spirit Competition in 1997. The estate is usually not open to the public.
Wiston, Pulborough
The Wiston Winery is set in the beautiful grounds of a 6,000-acre estate that has been owned and managed by the Goring family since 1743. Instead of sipping a glass of champagne at their stately mansion (it has been leased to the Foreign Office), we shall head for a taste of their award-winning wines at – where else? – the former turkey shed, which has happily been refurbished to house a modern winery, tasting room and more recently, restaurant called “Chalk” – no prizes for guessing why!
Ridgeview, Fragbarrow Lane
Despite its corporate feel, Ridgeview is very much a family business which, unlike many other estates, has grown organically over time without the benefit of outside investment. Although it has kept a relatively low profile, it is an important contract winemaker and has an enviable list of large-scale retailers as its customers. In addition to its own 22-acre site in Sussex, it sources grapes from six other counties, enabling it to create consistency at the lower levels and sheer greatness at the top – their 2016 Blanc de Blancs was chosen as the first wine to be served at King Charles III first state banquet in 2022.
Artelium, Streat
Artelium is an absolute must-visit destination not just for wine lovers but also for those interested in art. Quite apart from the outstanding pieces of artwork displayed both inside and out, co-founders Julie Bretland and Mark Collins have an entirely fresh concept. In their view, winemakers are artisans in their own right, imparting their unique fingerprint on the product. So contrary to other estates, they plan to increase not just their bottlings but also their pool of winemakers (among them, the celebrated Dermot Sugrue), each responsible for the different lines, with artists designing their striking labels.
Plumpton College, Lewes
England´s leading centre for wine education, which has served as a launching pad for many of the locals employed in the industry. It has a very much hands-on approach, with theory and practice combined (it is apparently the only teaching college in the world with a commercial winery onsite) and as such is the place to go for an insight into current research.
Breaky Bottom, Lewes
Having negotiated the bumpy farm track leading to the winery (note its name!), we head for the farmhouse kitchen to meet the legendary Peter Hall and hear his great stories. Peter is very much a pioneer in the English wine world, having planted his first grapes back in the 1970s. He has since established a reputation for premium quality far beyond the island´s boundaries, although in terms of size his is still a tiny operation with typically 10,000 bottlings a year. Characteristic for his cuvées is their long-ageing on the lees. Each is dedicated to honour close friends or family that have been important to him and each bottle is numbered. It comes as no surprise that he has a cult following.
Rathfinny, Alfriston
Surely wins the prize for the most stunning location, with vines carpeting a broad swathe of sunsoaked, slanting land just a ridge away from the English Channel. Founder Mike Driver is the man behind the Sussex PDO and everything here is on a huge scale – not just the vineyard but also the winery, which houses three enormous £60,000 Coquard presses. Sitting with a glass of Rathfinny on their magnifcent deck, one might wonder if there is indeed some truth in the Romans belief that “the best location to plant a vineyard is three miles from the sea”.
Oxney, Rye
Oxney may be small in size but it hits the top spot as the largest organic producer in the country, dispelling any doubts that this method of winegrowing is not possible in England´s maritime climate. This is the living and hardworking dream of a couple, Kristin Syltevik and Paul Dobson, who left their former careers to set up a farm where grapes are grown alongside a range of arable crops. The natural and low intervention methods carried out in the field are replicated in the winery, which is housed in a charming, converted hop barn.
Gusbourne, Appledore
Gusbourne is one of the country´s most prestigious wineries and if we are talking of prizes, then its classy cellar door wins hands-down for the best interior design (it´s amazing what you can do with wood, empty bottles and light)! It is also very informative, with interesting snippets of history printed around the walls. For example, did you know that viticulture flourished in England & Wales in the 16th century and only started to decrease following the dissolution of the monasteries under Henry VIII?
Balfour Winery (Hush Heath Estate), Staplehurst
Yet another lovely setting and a story that seemingly surprised even co-founders Richard and Leslie Balfour-Lynn. When they planted their first vines, they said that if they did not sell the wine, they would drink it themselves. Fast forward to now, production has reached almost 500,000 bottles a year with plans to grow up to 750,000 – 1 million bottles by 2026 (both still and sparkling), a good reflection of the speed of developments in the English wine industry.
Chapel Down, Tenterden
England´s largest producer embodies the English wine revolution perhaps better than any other. When CEO Frazer Thompson joined in 2001, he had to fend off the bailiffs. Now – in just over twenty years – it produces 1.5 m bottles a year with a market share of £100m. Originally made from bought-in grapes, the company is now a major grower, championing not just sparkling but especially still wines. At the top of the list is their Kits Coty Chardonnay, one of the UK´s very few single-vineyard offerings that has arguably done for still wine what Nyetimber had done for sparkling two decades earlier.
For further details, please contact Carolyn Lucas at info@winesite.de