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Mosel-Saar-Ahr: The sound of slate

12 to 16 September 2017

This unique tour takes us to three legendary regions blessed with the finest red and white wines of Germany. They are also dramatically beautiful, with vines clinging to vertiginous slopes, picturesque half-timbered villages and imposing wine estates from the time when Mosel wines sold for higher prices than first growth Bordeaux.

Experience steep slope viticulture at first-hand on a tour through the vineyards, learn the stories behind the wines at our many meetings with the winemakers, taste the best of regional produce at classy restaurants (the locals´ favourites) and immerse yourself in the history and present-day highlights of one of the truly magnificent parts of the wine world.

In the words of winemaker/blogger Dirk Würtz, “ Anyone who is afraid of superlatives should skip the next paragraphs ……… “

The Golden Triangle

Germany is famous for its Rieslings and none less so than those from the Mosel. We begin our journey at the Terrassenmosel in the lower part of the river, whose name was inspired by the giddyingly steep, narrow terraces which apart from the sun are only reached by workers with a head for heights. The big gun here is Heymann-Löwenstein but there are many excellent less well-known producers, providing a perfect insight into the work on the terraces and the different styles of winemaking. 

A further 150kms upstream we arrive at our base in Trier (3 nights). Trier was once the residence of Roman emperors and the largest city north of the Alps, and boasts eight UNESCO world heritage sites, eg. Porta Nigra, the best preserved city gate of antiquity and symbol of the city. It is also the seat of several religious and charitable bodies which owned much of the prized land (and vineyards) in the Middle Ages and still do today, eg. Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier and the Vereinigte Hospitien.

Just a few kilometres south-west of the city we enter the magical lands of the Saar. Often referred to as the “cool” sister of the Mosel, this delightful region is home to crystalline Rieslings which epitomize the quintessence of purity. One would be hard put to find a greater density of world-class estates in such a small area and our visits to the most celebrated producers – Geltz-Zilliken, Schloss Saarstein and Van Volxem – will unveil the secrets behind these exquisite wines.

Back in Trier, another absolute highlight awaits: the historic Grosser Ring-VDP wine auction. Back in the 19th century, auctions were the standard approach for selling wines. However, with the development of estate bottling and direct sales, the focus shifted to selected high-quality and rare wines only, their prices at times reaching dizzying heights, eg. the sensational 12,000 EUR for Egon Müller´s  “Scharzhofberger Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese 2003” in 2015. Most of wines auctioned today belong to the naturally-sweeter categories (Kabinett upwards) and include examples from such mythical names such as Egon Müller, JJ. Prüm, Maximin Grünhaus and Fritz Haag. By attending the event, you will be able to taste many of these nectars which are unavailable elsewhere, as well as gain an impression of a typical German auction – and if you wish, even place your own bid. 

Irresistable as they are, to focus solely on the white wines would be to neglect the country´s other trump card, Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir). For this we head up to the Ahr valley, the “red wine capital” of Germany with its elegant, refined Pinots from the sheer slate terraces. These are the wines that put the country on the international red wine map – just recently, Jean Stodden´s “Spätburgunder Alte Reben” won the Decanter award for the best Pinot Noir outside Burgundy (April 2016). Our meetings with newcomer and renowned Ahr-Tists – including Jean Stodden – will show us why. (1 night).